How to Trap Wild Bees from a Log

by Neil
(Perth, WA, Australia)

G'day Meg

As I said a friend gave me this way of getting bees from a log. Attached are the photos. A lot of wild bee colonies settle where they aren't convenient and because the seem too hard to move, normally get destroyed. I hate the idea of having to kill bees and waste this important animal so senselessly, so set about having a go at harvesting wild bees using this method.

The hose - I mixed sand with PVA wood working glue and poured thru and let drain a bit so bees have grippable surface to walk along.

The can has a mix of 1/3 sugar, 2/3 honey to entice bees to migrate and is placed upside down on the lid of the new hive. There are 4 small pin holes in lid of the can from which the bees can feed. there is a hole 75mm x 20mm and the can sits over it so the bees can feast.

Using an empty super box and a board the size of the hive between it and brood box is a good way to feed in winter, the milk crate is all that I had at the time.

The board that's there is only for transfer and will be replaced with one smaller and with only feed hole in it when finished to build new bees up over winter.

Shadecloth has been put on (3 layers) to seal Knot in the log then hose added and sealed with tape. You have to make sure all escape routes are sealed as they will look for them. You have to put hive as close as possible and keep hose as short as poss.

I set this up Saturday night(must be done at night so bees are home) and checked it 7 days later and bees are now using hive entrance and taking winter feed. The crate wrapped in shade cloth is to keep sun off the can. I was told to leave it set up as long as possible, at least 3 weeks so they bring the Queen and honey across to new home.

A beekeeper and my brother inlaw said it wont work but, surprise it DOES as my friend has used this method many times with success.

Cheers for the top bee kit.

Neil Beeson

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